A quick photo recap of our trip to Maui for the Nissan Xterra World Championship, in which Ace was competing Sunday. I'll cover the race in another post.
I've only been to Hawaii a couple of times (not counting the time I was supposedly there as an infant, because you couldn't yet fly non-stop from the U.S. to Hong Kong - THAT's how old I am): to Kauai with my family for Christmas one year, and to Kona (Big Island) with Ace for the Ironman last year. Like most places do, Hawaii grows on me a little more each time I go - this was my favorite island yet!
Maui greets you as you leave the airport with beautiful sights.
This is a recycling plant or something just off the highway between the airport and Kihei, where we stayed. Indeed, there was a fine black dust on everything, throughout our condo and everywhere. I don't know whether it was from this, or from sugar companies burning cane - there was an apologetic article in the paper discussing cane burning plans. Not great, but on the other hand I really don't know how long I could survive without sugar.
The cane fields themselves were beautiful.
This is the other view from the airport.
We stayed at the Luana Kai condo rentals. It was great. Q bed and a Q pullout couch. Kitchen. Shower was small, and the whole place needed a serious dusting, but we weren't there to stare at the dust. We were there to look out the windows - and the view was fantastic.
Never got in the pool more than knee deep, but it was warm, and the hot tub was noisily appropriated and littered by people who were not resident at the Luana Kai.
But I include negative notes only to help choosy future travelers. I had a wonderful time, and thought the place suited our needs extremely well. There's no maid service, you're on your own, but frankly on vacation I like to be able to put things where you want them and leave them there.
And I loved having a washer/dryer and a kitchen right there, though we didn't use any of them. They'll give you all the beach towels you can stuff in your car at the front desk.
It's a brief, moist walk to the beach, which stretches for about a mile, edged by a canal of sorts on one end and a rock sea wall on the other. It's superb sand for running - nice and firm and not too steeply angled.
Maui has a nice combination of green lushness and balmy weather. The afternoons were extremely breezy, but it was never chilly while the sun was out.
The stars were outstanding.
Saturday Ace checked in for his race and we enjoyed a sunset on Makena beach before the "dinner of champions."
The -3 hrs time change was a bonus, making it easy to hit the hay early.
I'll talk about the long day at the races on Sunday in a later post.
Monday it was tough to get moving in the morning, but we had heard tales of the "best banana bread on the planet" available from a stand somewhere up on the northwest coast of Maui, so we set out.
Picked up some shell jewelry and a Hawaiian shirt in which Ace sure looked nice!
One sight on the way to Banana Bread was "The Blowhole." We got pictures far away
and up close.
Some friendly Canadians took our picture, which was nice, except that the guy kept urging us to wait for a good spout and then when we got one kept saying, "Ohhh, that's the money shot. That's the money shot."
It finally occurred to me, after viewing several of these sights, how CLEAN everything was. The only signs of human beings were the little stacks of rocks everybody does for some reason.
No people debris, like pop tops or hamburger wrappers. Needless to say, we then proceeded to walk past this delightful leave-behind.
Yes, that is a pair of panties. 
After a couple hours of driving up the coast we came to a single lane road on the side of a cliff. It was wild.
Little half-moons were carved out of the cliffside so the inside car could pull off and let someone coming the other way pass. Three miles of this later, we got to the banana bread stand (it self promotes along the way so you don't abandon your quest prematurely) ...only to find the banana bread had sold out twenty minutes earlier.
They still had samples, though. Ace found it a little dry.
So we paid five dollars (!) for a snack-sized bag of coconut candy, and that nourished us all the way back to the fancy luau Ace had signed us up for.
My immediate reaction when Ace told me he'd gotten us tickets to a luau was, "Oh no! That's when all the other football players' wives go to the bathroom together and bitch about me behind my back."
But it was wonderfully done. Of COURSE it's touristy, of COURSE it's going to be cliched. But if the staff thought we were all suckers, they didn't betray a whiff of it. Everyone was awfully nice and hospitable, they brought you leis as you mentioned your reservation, passed out fruity rum drinks on a tray as you queued up to be led to your table. Ace had chosen "traditional" mat seating (versus tables-and-chairs) and that was definitely the way to go: our seats for the show were unbeatable - the inside edge of the inside table, practically in the center of the performance. It was an all-you-can-eat, all-you-can-drink type of scene, but it was well orchestrated so there was no impossible line or rude vulturing by people back for seconds. Food was good: octopus salad had better flavor than the ahi poke; guava chicken was yummy, and something with barbecue sauce was very nice. Don't waste your appetite on the bread rolls. 
The show was great (also educational). Hula girls and guys were lovely and strong. The ladies had sparkling smiles and the men looked suitably intense.
This girl was our favorite, she was Hawaii's answer to Reese Witherspoon. That big scooping chin in profile, but head on she had a fantastic smile and a ton of personality in her features.

Tuesday I had an early morning surf lesson, and learned that morning is preferable because when the winds come up that causes choppy water and surfers want glassy water with waves. Our teacher was great, he said he was ranked second in Peru (at some point) and was very attentive. I was astounded to get up on the first try, credit perhaps to my 10 foot wide, 20 foot long surf board. But so what? I was surfing!
So much better than that one time when Travis took me out in Half Moon Bay or Pacifica somewhere in October - with an inch-thick wet suit, I paddled out, paddled back in, and was done. It was SO cold. Ricardo agreed that cold water surfing almost wasn't even surfing, because how much can you really do when you can't feel your feet. I'm with that assessment 100%. Definitely want to go again - and I think one lesson goes a long way. I don't think I'll need another for a while.
Anyway, I'll recommend this organization as soon as I can find the owner's card - the staff seemed very professional. The owner and the instructor were both kind of bad mouthing their competition, saying the the other teachers were not necessarily particularly good surfers, and often came to work stoned or hung over and used the time to surf themselves rather than teach. Grain of salt and all. I had a great experience and the price was right - $36.95 for a two hour, two person (they cap it at 6) lesson (equipment included). Until I find the name, it was Something Brothers, they have a white ice cream-type truck with a hula dancer on top.
I learned what rash guards are for. The top of your board is smooth of course, but just a little tacky so your feet don't slip off, and when you're jumping up from paddling, your skin grabs the board - just a little, so there's a little squeak - and you don't notice it each time, but at the end of two hours in the salt water you realize you're a little chafey. Fortunately I had worn a top in case it was chilly, but the front of my thighs did not benefit from this. Another surfer showed me how you should get a rash guard with a little loop in the bottom front of it, so you can tie that to your board shorts and eliminate any gap at the belly.
We attempted the "Road To Hana," which, besides sounding like a Bob Hope movie, is supposedly one of the best 10 things to see in the United States, according to somebody or other. (There was an article taped to a crepe stand.) It ranked behind the Grand Canyon and, I think, Epcot Center or something equally inexplicable. But before we got too far the skies opened up and threatened to drown us. The girls at the crepe stand warned that the roads were skiddy in the wet, and a bamboo/waterfall route that sounded divine wasn't possible for Ace, who'd injured himself during the race.
So we patted ourselves on the back for trying, and drove back down towards Makena, to see the Best Beach in the World (Maui is all about the top ten lists), a.k.a. Big Beach, in addition to the clothing-optional Little Beach just next door. Big Beach was just that, with a great wide surf and jumpable waves - and nearly empty at 3:30 in the afternoon. We climbed over the rocks to Little Beach, but I chickened out because Ace had raised the spectre of some guy with a camera and an Internet connection. It was just as well. I went to frolick in the surf (which was GREAT - the waves were bigger here than at Big Beach) and Ace noticed some guys being skeevy till they got chased away. It seemed, at about 5 pm, that some unspoken word went out and Little Beach turned Gay. As Ace and I were packing up to leave, we were chastised by one long-haired local for not being sufficiently "free," so I mentioned the creeps and he said they'd chased them away, which was true, but those guys had already ruined it for me so I didn't feel very apologetic for not joining in. Besides which, Mr. Freedom's friends had swimming trunks on anyway. 
We watched the sunset on Big Beach and called it a day.
Supposedly Hawaii's equivalent of Mardi Gras is Halloween in Lahaina. We'd prepared costumes and had looked forward to the uniqueness of probably the only time we'd be in Hawaii on Halloween, but I was completely wiped out for some reason and could not motivate. Ace did not insist, and instead we sat out by the pool (the hot tub had been commandeered by the loud non-residents) until they started putting out the tiki torches.
Wednesday the weather was overcast and muggy, and we decided it was time to leave. Fond memories, Hawaii. (Or should I say "fond memauis"!) I'm definitely coming back.


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